Shoe and method of manufacturing the same



Dec. 17, 1946. J. R. BRADY ET AL 2,412,865

SHOE AND METHOD OF MANUFACTUR ING.THE SAME Filed Feb. 20, 1946 FIGI.

FIG. 2.

v //A 1!!!! IIIIII I IVVENTORS ABRAM MOSKOWITZ AND JAMES R. BRADY Arron/var Patented Dec. 17,1946 TPY .SHOE AND METHOD or MANUFACTURING THE SAME James R. Brady, St. Louis, and Abram Moskowitz, University City, 'Mo., assignors; to Milius Shoe ing drawing in which: Fig. 1 is a top plan view of a pre-formed upper Company, St. Louis, Mo., a corporation of Missouri Application February 20, 1946, Serial No. 648,879

This invention relates to shoes and methods of manufacturing the same, and has special reference to improvements in the so-called slip-lasted type of shoe. This type, as is well understood, is

chiefly distinguished by the manner in which the is to construct a shoe in general accordance with the prescribed slip-lasting method but with certain improvements therein that enhance "the comfort, appearance, and wearing quality of the shoe.

An important object of the present invention is to construct a shoe of this charactenwherein the inner sole members and stitching at the sole line are concealed. Although this, of itself, is not a new concept in slip-lasted constructions, all former methods have incidental disadvantages, not the least of which is the creation of wrinkles in the linings of the shoes. It is the purpose of this invention to provide an improved and more efficient construction that eliminates such objections.

Another objection to such former constructions "is'that the outer ply of the upper that serves to hide the sole line stitches requires special and w skilled manipulation to conform it to a last, akin to that required in connection with hand and machine lasted shoes. The objection is avoided in the presently described construction by producing an upper assembly which is completely fashioned prior to the introduction therein of the last, and whereby the outer ply conforms itself to the shape of the inserted last so that little or no effort, skill or experience is required by the shoemaker in the operation of turning in and securing the lasting allowance. Accordingly, the fundamental advantages of the slip-lasted process which heretofore were only partly attained in hidden stitching constructions are fully realized by the improved method of the present invention.

These and other objects and advantages will be more fully explained in the description that follows, reference being made to the accompany- 7 Claims. (01. 36 -195) assembly. for an open toe, open heel type of womens shoe;

Fig. 2 isa plan view showing the under side of the same upper assembly; 7

Fig. 3 is a plan view of a sock liner having toe and heel tabs attached thereto;

Fig. 4 is a bottom plan view showing the parts illustrated in Figs. 2 and 3 after they have been stitched together;

Fig. 5 is a transverse sectional view of the assembly of Fig. 4 as taken at line 55 ofthat figure; l

Fig. 6 is a bottom view showing the assembly of Fig. 5 following a subsequent operation wherein the lining ply of the upper is marginally stitched to the outer ply of the upper;

Fig. 7 is a bottom view illustrating the assem-; bly following insertion therein of a last, the'incorporation of an insole, and the securement thereto of the upper plies;

Fig. 8 is a transverse sectional view taken at line 3-8 of Fig. 7 showing the structure with the outsole applied;

Fig. 9 is a plan view of a sock liner of modified form, and

opening as indicated by the lines of stitching l2,

and along edges which define openings in the upper, such as by stitching l3 and I4 at the margins of the heel and toe openings. As appears in Figs. '2 the lining ply is provided with trace marks It to indicate lineswhere the said lining ply, later in the process, is to be stitched to the sock liner Hi. The lining ply H extends beyond the trace marks to provide a substantial marginal allowance, this bordering strip being desirably made one-quarter of an inch or greater in width for purposes which will hereinafter appear. In this respect the present construction differs from the customary construction, wherein the upper linings terminate approximately at the sock lining or sole level. The outer ply I 0 also is extended to provide a bordering strip for lasting purposes, and such bordering strip preferably projects a short distance beyond the lower extremity of the lining ply, as shown. v I p The sock liner I6, of textile fabric, or thin pliain. the. so1e--.structure correspond g to: ha

posed by reason of openings 'inthe upper, asset.

the heel and toe in the present example.

The sock liner is attachedtosthe lininglply:lli of the upper by stitches 2i which izollow -tlle 'tracie; marks [5 on the lining ply. *Ihe "stitches 2! do not engage or pass through the outer ply l0. Thereafter the lining ply istsecllredrto the uter ply by means of cement applied between .andto the adjacent surfaces, or by a row of stitches-22" that extend along the lower edge of the lining ply, -or both by "cementingand stitching.

Allof the foregoing steps are lperiormedoif the-last and involve simplecutting, "stitching: and cementing operations. At this stage of the process (Fig. 6) the disposition ora'rrangement of the outer ply relative to the lining. ply and thesock lineris fixed sincerthe plies are .secured together both at their top and .bottom .margins. Accordingly it may be said that 'theuppen assembly is completelyvfashioned prior to the introduction therein of the last. The present method thus distinguishes from former methods wherein the lowermmargi'n of the outer ply. is left free until after-theJast-has been inserted; In such case the outer. ply is required to be 'molded to the last and: its marginal extension. secured to the sole structure independently oi the lining .p1y,'which requires careful and painstaking manipulation. by a highly. skilled shoemaker. .i

Continuing now. with .the: description of the method'ofthepresent invention, a last 23 is inserted in the pre-formed assembly-of F g. 6, and the bottom or. exposed-surface.oi-thegsock liner is given a coating of adhesive, adhesive being also, appliedato the. imier, surfaces of the marginal. extensions, of the upper and. to that of the heeLand toe-tabs i'l and l8; If theshoe is to be provided with an insole or platform such member, ndicated bylnumeral 24, is positionedon andvsecurecl vto the exposed: surface ofthe sock-liner. Only asimple hand or Ina,- Chil'lGyODQIifldiiQIl is, now necessary to wrap or 'pullftl'ie marginal extensions of the; upper:; and

the;" abs .zil and isabou he edge o the. nso e.

an .toadhesively..- sec re, th m o; e .bo tqm surface..th r in th maile l ustrated- Fig.s.-'l and 8. I y

Al h u h he ov siongtaainsels .n-;- hs describ z t n. s sirah eqsuch. me is .not essential and may be omitted, as where em l i light, lr i xib s. ls: ims.- tur is wa e en. m it d a-mer l .1 tensions ,of the upper are secured f directly the bottom surface. of; the sock-liner, issalso d red to. m n n. n:th .:9 hiilr ftam. ypes $.11.Q.. are. o stricted; with; n inso e r p at rm t a extend zvnlyr n.a 9- part, nd ap c of bre-or; he ik s. r r v e .in, theheel and shank areas .ofthe ;so1e;. struc ure, a f r; in pur qsss. sh n s in -members 0i thi charaqtewp upyp an insole, which term is ,-h

ta includes chmemb rs, a

It is in connection with the last recited operation of pulling, turning under and securing the marginal extensions of the plies to the sole structure that the value of the earlier operation of uniting the marginal extensions of outer and lining plies is particularly manifest, Thus, when drawing and turning under the marginal extensions suflicient tension is exerted thereon ts cause both plies to hug the surface of the last. Sincethe extensions are united, they may beg'manipulated as a unit in a simple manner and the tensioning force is imparted with like efie'ct tobo'th plies. This is conducive to the avoidance of -Wrinkles and distortion in the lining ply which otherwise results when the outer ply is manipulated individually as is the case in former,preposedgconstructions. Itwill be understood hat irregularities in the lining ply caused by-=-unequal tensioning are not observable until the last is removed, and then it is too late to efieettheincorrection. 1

1 :Imsucceedingoperationsiconiicriticnal.ms liqfi may bef ployed .to complete; the Su h perations. may. include. the provision fillsr material- 25 :between the turnedrunder marginal extensions: oi the pper. to produce a flat. sur faceeto receive, the outsole 16. which is; adhesively securedin. pl c accerdance wit cus mar ractices.

,Althollgh' less; des rable; thev h tfiwfore described methodthe same-advantageous, results m r' e b a somewhat odifledm r thod; the. essential features ofzwhich are; illus; trated in F s. sand-.19; n: hiszmcd fisiwnstruction the lining ply l;lct;=ter r;ninate s at the sock .liner- Him The. dimensionsof; the-latter member however. are incr ed. s; rov d he marginal ex-tension i612, Tracemarks-IS a out} lining th bender. of.- hesocls. iner p emier provided, and the lower edges of the liningply aia i ewed. t h s; see l ne b s i 2msaiongithe.s d w terma s Therea he meth d s a ied: out. n: :ee e dan with h methcdrpreviouslr. descr b d, t e on ydifierence .betwee f tructions -beingilastingai lows -.-'f01'{ the in; -Qly lS furnished by an in;- tegra xtensionioi he sockliner instead oi an extension; of J the lining -.-ply; of theupper.

Whereas n the constructions illustrated herein the en ir la a i s: are how to h ve marginal extensions for the purposes explained, 'bequnderstq d ha t ese, lprovisiensamay ed and the methodsbf the presentinp lisdto or ons qn i 0 the a ti ammai -ms ss Q lh'Q as. ti rm prq i sdi ni ih .forepart and arwncea din q e: r.- h u Y n fiupmv dgd ma hs; hank. a d. el pa t In erbe..:dss b ssihemeth d en nrestieninx enesc i ir fi h lastin n -h e1.l ontio nlrk li n the. re i n awherei .Q i' .016 n 01. line.ist c inssarewca leis mi,andtwmnl y he cenrent pn ;slipslastina esthesa onnec i n withnthe-fbrepartconfitlil ction -We c1airnas o nyention.-- nvas oa p e hev ssarie i i r p s n .a-;.linir g ;ply; mean g together the lower i inalm ti ns lies s s -ae a ing its marginal portion stitched only tothe-lind nwar edge of said member and being secured to the bottom thereof, and an outsole secured to the bottom of said member.

2. In a shoe, an upper having an outer ply and a lining ply, a sock liner having its marginal portion stitched only to the lining plv of said upper, an insole positioned beneath said sock liner, the marginal portions of said outer and lining plies extending about the edge of said insole and being stitched together below said insole and secured to the bottom surface thereof, and an outsole secured to the bottom surface of said insole.

3. In a shoe, an upper having an outer ply and a lining ply, a sock liner stitched at its marginal portion to the lining ply only of said upper, said outer and lining plies having marginal portions extending beyond said sock liner stitching and being stitched together near their lower edges along lines spaced from said sock liner stitching, an insole adhesively secured to said sock liner,

the extended marginal portion of said lining ply being adhesively secured to the bottom surface of said insole, the stitching which secures together the margins of said plies being spaced inwardly from the edge of said sock liner, and an outer sole secured to said insole.

4. In a method of making shoes, the steps which include producing an upper to have an outer ply and a liner, stitching a sock liner to the upper liner only such that a marginal portion of one of said liners projects beyond said stitching, securing said projecting marginal portion to the upper outer ply at points spaced beyond said stitching, inserting a last into the described assembly, turning under the projecting marginal portion of said one liner and the associated portion of the outer ply and securing the same beneath the sole liner, and adhesively securing an outsole to the turned under portion of said outer ply.

5. In a method of making shoes, the steps which include providing an upper to have outer 6 and lining plies, each provided with an extended lower marginal portion, stitching a sock liner to the upper lining ply only, such that the extended marginal portion of the lining ply projects beyond said stitching, securing together the marginal extensions of said upper plies at points spaced beyond said stitching, inserting a last into the described assembly, drawing, turning under and securing said marginal extensions beneath the sole liner, and adhesively securin an outsole to the turned under marginal extension of said outer ply.

6. In a method of making shoes, the steps in cluding producing an upper having an outer ply and a lining ply each formed to provide an extended lower marginal portion, stitching a sock liner to the lining ply only, such that said marginal extensions project beyond said stitching, securing together the said marginal extensions, inserting a last into the foregoing assembly, securing an insole to the sock liner, drawing, turning under and securing said marginal extensions to the bottom surface of said insole and securing an outsole of said insole.

'7. The herein described method of shoe manufacture which includes the steps of constructing an upper having an outer ply and a lining ply each formed to provide marginal portions that extend beyond the normal sole line, stitching a sock liner to the lining ply only, such that the said marginal extension of said ply projects beyond said stitching, stitching together the lower edges of the marginal extensions of said plies, inserting a last into the foregoing assembly, adhesively securing an insole to said sock liner, drawing the lasting allowance portions of said upper plies about the edges of. said insole and adhesively securing the same to the bottom surface thereof, and thereafter securing an outsole to said insole.

JAMES R. BRADY. ABRAM MOSKOWITZ. 

